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The *Initial* Sweater
Hobbie's rolled neck Initial Sweater featured here is the adult version of the very same design, knit using a dark olive wool and mohair blend. The neckline is rolled with the cuffs and bottom edge trimmed with ribbing.
Although we often knit our samples using production "shortcuts", the rolled neck sweater pictured here is knit exactly as the pattern is written.
This is a very versatile style of sweater so we thought it would be fun to offer a variety of different edge finishes and knit a sample sweater for each type of edging. While the children's sweaters are knit in acrylic for ease of care, the adult sweater shown above is knit in a light, worsted weight yarn of blended fibers, finished with a rolled neckline and ribbed bottom edge and cuffs. It is really more of an indoor sweater as the fabric is quite delicate.
Letters will be available to knit in or duplicate stitch onto the front of the sweater or you can print out the graph paper and draw them out according to your font preference. Although oversized on the small sweaters, we draft the "adult" initials to be about 7 inches high and 6 inches wide, and position the top of the letter approximately 3.5" to 4 " from the beginning of the neckline opening. Larger initials, in a handwritten style and designed to be applied to the sweater front, will also be available for the newer Initial Sweater. You can embellish the front with a knit-in or duplicate stitched "Initial"; you can let the yarn do the "talking"; you can knit the sweater with different edgings for a completely different look each time. Why not replace the ribbing with a turned up hem and edge the neckline with a double stockinette stitch band? Or....you could let all the edge rolls! We will be adding edging variations for this size as well as on future sizes. Don't forget to ask for a pattern drafted in your size.
Knitting Hints and Tips:Knitting books, yarns, supplies, projects and ideas. Find it all at Joann.com online. As a beginning knitter working on your first knitting project, do you often wonder "how important" is it to use the size knitting needle recommended in the pattern instructions?
However, getting the correct stitch and row gauge is even more important - regardless of the size needle you have to use in order to achieve the specified gauge. Knitting Basics For Beginners! Quickly & Easily Discover How To Knit with this Simple, Easy To Read, Resource Guide.
Stitch and row gauge is a funny thing. It determines whether the finished project will fit you or a doll! Being just a wee bit off the specified gauge is not a major problem when you are dealing with small pieces of knitting although problems will occur! Anything more than a "wee bit" and the frustration level rises accordingly. Here is an example of what happens when your stitch and row gauge is off and the error is multiplied over a large area such as the back of a sweater. The stitch and row gauge for the *Initial Sweater* pattern is measured over 4 inches or 10 cm. The directions say to cast on 93 stitches for the back of the sweater: Knitting Hint: On tapered sleeves, make your increases 1 stitch in from the edge. It gives you a neat line to follow if you decide to use the crochet method of assembly or a mattress stitch. Actually, it will serve the same purpose if you choose to backstitch the sleeve seam.
Only half a stitch off the recommended gauge and your sweater just lost two inches of wearing ease across the chest area! The opposite will happen if the stitches are loose! All the while, the rows are suffering too.
With smooth finish yarns, we almost always use a backstitch to sew the shoulders. It creates a more stable seam at a point that supports most of the weight of your sweater. This works best with medium weight yarns...anything heavier and the seam would be too bulky. Kitchener stitch open shoulder stitches for a totally seamless look. Pin baste your sleeve head into the armhole. Consider it a preliminary check to see if everything is in the right place! Sleeves can be crocheted into the armhole. This allows you to fit the sleeve head more accurately...and if the seam does not look right - it's quick and easy to pull out, re-adjust [both the position of the sleeve and the length of your crochet stitch] and start again. Check the progress of your seaming every couple inches.
Hint: On tapered sleeves, make your increases 1 stitch in from the edge. It gives you a neat line to follow if you decide to use the crochet method of assembly or a mattress stitch. Actually, it will serve the same purpose if you choose to backstitch the sleeve seam. Another hint: If you have trouble using a bulky or nubby yarn to sew your seams, find a smooth yarn of the same fiber content, in a color that blends well. Use it as your thread. Happy Knitting!
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We decided on a wide neckline so the sweater could be worn layered over a shirt or turtleneck.
What about initials? We are charting them out according to the stitch and row gauge for the pattern.
Assembly: Finishing techniques are very important! Select the correct one for each step of assembly.
Side and sleeve seams can be mattress stitched or crocheted together if the yarn being used is not too bulky. In most cases, when the garment is knit using a stockinet [or stockinette] stitch, we recommend a mattress stitch for a neat seam, both on the outside and the inside.
